Spray Foam Insulation - The Intelligent Choice






Yeah, let's make the phone Wow we're on this stuff, really expand. Yes, it does. Kent by this product is shot on at about 1200 pounds of pressure and about 150 degrees heat it to the gun and the exothermic chemical reaction of the two products heats it up about another 40, 50 degrees, so about 200 degrees and 1,200 pounds of pressure, and It actually expands at a ratio of 1 to 120 well that stuff it covers every nook and cranny. Doesn'T it Ron you can bet you there's not going to be any cracks and voids with this product in the world and we're going to eliminate all those other infiltration factors that we were concerned with Ron? I noticed they're shooting every other panel, how come they're doing that. Well, there's a reason for it and it facilitates the trimming and, if you'd like to step into the next room over here, I can show you how that's done. Okay, let's go! This is a trimming process and I promise to show you can't, as you can see, that's a special tool with a long saw blade on it, and what this does is affords us to cut the phone even with the faces of the studs, so that sheet rockers. Don'T have any problem when they come in behind us right. Okay, then, as you see the end of that sauce sticking out on the lift at that panel, adjacent to it was filled with foam as well would tear the fall and the next panel. So what we actually do is shoot every other battle back and trim. That is really slick Ron. I can see how this product works great in these 16 inch cavities, but are there any special applications for this product? Well, we like to think all applications of selection. 500 or special, but you're, absolutely correct Kent. There are many specific areas in the house under new construction that just cannot be addressed properly and insulated properly with other installations. Let'S go look at some of those okay: let's go Kent. This is the first of those special areas that we were talking about with a home and it's what we call a subfloor, and we see a lot of this today. You know the architects are trying to use every square foot of the home that they can possibly literally have to. We see a lot of what they call bonus rooms and that's what we're looking at is the floor. Mother-Son floor of a bonus realm and with traditional types of insulation, hiring Arthur knows that type of thing are be too graphic. Those products are hollow inside and I'm sure you've got a lot of homeowners years that in all this one room, they just improve enough you, but, as you can see our product welds itself in the subfloor seals, if it's never going to shrink, it's never going to Sag, what you end up with is honestly just as comfortable as any other room floor as tremendous they make that over the rod, space very fun. I can't here we are looking at another area of that requires special attention, and this is the trusses and that's the end of the trusses between the top stud plate on the first floor and the bottom plate of the second floor right. These are just typical problems for air leakage in at home. If I were to ask you one more time, how would you insulate that, with traditional insulation such as fiberglass, what would your comment well not very easy that you get less than 16 inch width up there and they just have to stuff it up in their best? They can so it's another cut and paste and patch job jewelry, that's lutely. What would you do about a vapor barrier on that interior wall between those trusses? You can't get a vapor barrier. This just can't happen. You know one more time I got to say to you: can't watch selection 500 go to work any doubt in your mind. If those trust sims are closed, I think they're fairly. Well, sealed I'm going to have a air leakage up there. I don't think there'll be much air hidden through that sticker cavity, which is good well, that is fantastic, even in between those small gaps in the trusses, where he fills those up you're ready to look at another special area. You bet great, hey, Kent. This is another one of those special areas that we talked about: insulating with foam, we're looking at a typical kitchen wall exterior wall, and we have plumbing and water supply, piping and wires, and electrical outlets and all sorts of penetrations in that role. If I were to ask you to insulate that wall with old fiberglass at one of the other, typical installations that are around, how would you go about it? What would you do well, it'd, be a cut-and-paste job around all that piping and electrical boxes in there. Okay, cut and paste, and the fiberglass is an example, ended up being compressed and what happens to your value when you compress my goes to almost nil okay, so we've got minimal insulation with traditional insulation techniques, desperate watch this we're on look at that foam to surround All that piping in there, that is a I got your mind - that it completely encapsulates all those penetrations. No that's just beautiful Kent. This is another one of the areas of special application, as you call it, and what we're talking about our corners and T's. If I were to ask you how that corner would get deep insulated with traditional installations on the market today, what would you say to me most, the time around that corner doesn't get into it and the same goes for T's right yeah! That'S that's back watch this! That'S unbelievable another area we're looking at here Kent that just really can't be addressed by other installations or vaulted ceilings and cathedral ceilings that we see in many many of the homes. Today, again, those architects are gone nuts and trying to make them look pretty yeah. If I were to ask you to insulate this area with a traditional insulation fiberglass and that type of thing what's going to happen with time, well, it's going to be nailed up there and in Sag down and and almost go to nothing overtime. Another thing we like to address is air-conditioning, duct leakage, the vent side of the air conditioning system operating at a positive pressure and the return side operating a negative pressure. A lot of leakage, plus the return side, is the primary source of dust leakage into the home. Dave and Ron this product is truly impressive. I'M just tremendously impressed, but as a builder, I got to ask you: what's the bottom line of this product Kent, the bottom line is pretty simple: our comprehensive program of caulking sealing and insulating a home of selection. 500. It'S going to give you about as comfortable a home as money can buy your home's going to be quiet, your home is going to be dust free and your home is going to be draft-free. Most importantly, your home is going to save you about 50 %. On your air conditioning and heating cost combine that with the elimination of any kind of an exterior Rep, the elimination in most parts of the country, vapor barriers and the downsizing of tonnage required to air-condition the home. So there's substantial cost benefits on other products that we put in a home that will come back to us to help pay for the cost was less I've under the energy savings over the life of a 30-year mortgage is in the tens of thousands of dollars. Well, that's impressive, and I know our consumers will love those savings that they'll get off their utility bills. Well, Dave. I really appreciate you introducing me to this product is to render their product and Ron. I am building in my own personal home now and I can guarantee you this election 500 go in there and be the insulating product for me and my family to use, and hopefully several others thanks, my dear. Why thank you. Thank you.

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How to Install Spray Foam Insulation DIY

Hi, I'm Shannon from host improvements comm and today, I'm going to show you how to use a two-part spray foam insulation package. There'S a lot of different manufacturers of these packages, so just depend of what's available in your area, even though I'm going to show you how to use this particular one make sure you for sure read all the safety instructions and the user manual in whatever package you Get just to be sure that in case there's, any differences from manufacturer to manufacturer, so the one we have today is a what they call a two hundred kit. So what they're saying is that the yield on it will be about two hundred square feet worth of foam at one inch thick, so we're gon na be spraying close to two inches thick here, so we'll be hopefully getting around 100 square feet out of these two Cans at two inches thick, so once I opened up the box, some of the first things you find is you're gon na find the instruction manual as well as the the you know: safety equipment, that's needed and all of little tips and that sort of thing so Make sure you read that over well, most of these guys have 1-800 numbers and websites as well. So if you have other questions, you can get ahold of somebody to ask. You should find an assortment of some different spray. Nozzles. These guys send two different types and they they've sent about. I don't know four or five of each one. It looks like so this particular nozzle here is just for spraying. You know gaps and cracks sort of thing. It'S gon na send out a stream, so that would be that one here this one here is a fan tip. It'S got a bit of a v-notch cut in the end, so this one's gon na spray out about a I don't know it just depends on the kit you're using but probably eight inch or so fan width of pattern, which is good for filling wall. Cavities, like what we're gon na do here, so you'll have a bit of a selection of the of the tips in there. This kit comes with two two containers: two two steel cylinders. This particular one already has the hoses and the gun already hooked to it. That does have a bit of a carrying handle here as well. Some of the bigger kits they're gon na have tanks to teach in tanks, obviously because it's two components, but the tanks are much larger, so they come boxed separately just because they're too heavy to to carry is one unit. So in here, like I said this, one, the the gun and the hoses are already attached to the tanks. Some of them you will, it will come with a wrench and you may have to attach your own hoses and gun a couple things to go over. I guess, since I've got the gun out putting on the tips, the gun has a bit of a safety trigger here this one. So the yellow button down here has to be compressed or pressed before you can actually squeeze the trigger. The tanks are still turned off by the way, so you don't want to turn them on until you're actually ready to spray. So this gun has a safety on it to attach a nozzle just get. It orientated wait right, there's, usually some marks in the end of the gun that correspond to the the way the nozzle looks and just push it in there on this one, this little lever here, you should just hear it click in like that and just look to Make sure that the little believer hook down on the lock knob on the top of the nozzle so putting the nozzle on just like that, taking it off squeeze this button, pull it off when you're spraying? If you stop, for more than about thirty seconds, you're, probably gon na find that you'll have to change your nozzle. So it's a good idea, get yourself all set up, get things out of the way, so that, once you start spraying, you can just kind of keep going with it and you aren't losing a bunch of time. Otherwise, you're gon na have to change your nozzles. What happens is the two components come in each come in their own hose and once they hit the nozzle there's a kind of a spiral II set up inside of the nozzle here that actually starts to mix the two homes, because until the two products mixed together, They don't actually have the chemical reaction which causes them to expand and cure. So if you stop for too long, it starts to set up in here and it clogs, and it's not gon na work properly. So that's why they send you multiple ones. So if you stop pop your tip off, put a new one on and away you go again, they also in this bag sent some petroleum jelly. So what they'd like you to do is smear some of the jelly right inside of the gun here and that just helps to allow your your tips not to seal up rate at the end of the gun. So you can just throw your tip way put anyone on and everything should be fine, so we've got the jelly optimally. Your tanks need to be around are usually about 24 degrees Celsius around so that'd be what I don't know about 79 78 degrees Fahrenheit to get the most yield out of them and to make everything work properly, so keep them somewhere stored. Warm you can spray on to a cooler surface, but you don't want something. That'S frosty and wet so like here where we're doing this in February and it's a below grade. So the wall is cool, but it's actually still about 2 degrees Celsius. So and there's no frost present, so that's your tanks once we're ready to go we're gon na open, both valves on the tanks completely you're gon na see the product start to come down the line once once. It fills up the lines. Oh before that, sorry, you should shake the tanks really well. I think it's usually around 3040 seconds. You need to agitate the tanks that will just get things mixed together, open your valves, let it bleed into the lines. Do your petroleum jelly, get your tip, ready and and then you're pretty much close to being ready to spray, and obviously, before that, put on all your your protective equipment protective equipment? These guys recommend, if you don't have real good ventilation, that you should be wearing a respirator similar to this and it's fitted with cartridges that are for organic vapor as well as particle filtration, so they're kind of a two-part cannister one. Does the organic part of the chemicals and the other just does the any solids that might be in the air? So so it's important to have that if you don't have the proper ventilation, we did a did. A video with us with a similar product there a while ago, and we had a lot of people freaking out because we weren't wearing a mask. We did talk in the video, how we had lots of ventilation and everything, but we still had people kind of freaking out, so we've actually gon na redo this video today and we don't have the ventilation here quite as good. We just were able to open a couple windows, so we're gon na use the mask for sure also some rubber gloves to protect your hands. You already see that I have the the painters suit on or the bodysuit on, to protect my clothing, I'm wearing a hat I'll, have safety glasses on. So it's just to protect yourself from any spray back that you might get. It doesn't happen very often, but you never know you could get some bounce back onto you so and it doesn't come off that easily. You definitely don't want it in your eyes or your mouth or anything like that. So so that's for the protective part. I think I've I've shaken the tanks, pretty good, we'll give him another little shake shake before we go just before. I actually use a nozzle and once I've got the tanks open, I'm gon na shoot the gun into a garbage can or a box or in our case, we're gon na use. A garbage can just to make sure I'm getting two fairly even streams coming out. Then I'll get my tip on and and start spraying, so when you're spraying it's much like kind of in a way like spraying paint. If you've ever had to do that, we're gon na come up to the wall. We want to be about six or eight inches away from the wall and we're just gon na. You know, regulate our speed by hand to put on the amount that we want to see get on now. Remember it's going to expand some, so you don't want to fill the cavity rate up right away or once it expands you're just gon na be having to cut it all off, because it's it's sticking out too much. You know. So it's simply squeeze the trigger regulate. Your speed let go of the trigger squeeze and come down again. Okay, so you just keep doing that. We'Re gon na do these some of these spaces here in preparation. What we've done any electrical boxes, you'll want to tape them up or seal them up, because once the foam gets in and around them, it'll actually expand into the the open holes and cavities of the box and actually end up inside. So you want to prevent that. So we've just wrapped this one in some plastic, the wiring is fine to be embedded in the spray foam that isn't a problem. We'Ve just basically brushed the wall off, made sure it wasn't covered in any cobwebs and dust and that if the wall is damp or frosty or anything you you want to make sure you warm it up and dry it off before you spray this on that won't Bond to the concrete as well, you will get some probably overspray onto some of your framing materials here. We'Ve just got two by twos, but that will clean off with a scraper fairly easily once it secured anything. That'S around the area that you don't want to get foam on, just Paulie it up or tape it off or whatever. Just to be sure you aren't getting some overspray on anything that you didn't want to cover so we're gon na spray. Some rate on this concrete wall, I'm gon na, go up and do a couple cavities in that wood wall too. It'S really just the same thing, but I just thought: I'd show it since we can. I think that's pretty much covering everything that I'd talked about again. Remember just keep your foam canisters at a good temperature. These ones actually have a little temperature gauge on them. So that's kind of handy to know where you're at but just keep them inside, so they're they're warmed up and good to go. You don't want to directly. You know blast a furnace on them or wrap them in electrical heat blanket or something like that, not nothing that extreme, but just make sure they're warmed up well, okay, so I'm going to put on my protective equipment. You may not be able to hear me as well with the mask on so that's why I was trying to cover everything here well before I get all suited up, but I may may do bit of talking with the mask on, but it may not be that Clear so so I'm just going to break away here for a minute, get my personal, personal, protective equipment on and then we'll come back and show you how to spray [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ] [, Music, ] [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [ Applause, ], [ Applause, ], [ Applause, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], okay, so we've let things sit here for a little bit and let the fumes get out. So we can take the mask off and finish up. You can see it's expanded out nicely, it's nice and firm. If you get a wrong mixture, sometimes you'll get a clogged line or something. So if you get too much of one of the chemicals - and I can't remember - which way it is you'll actually get soft mushy foam and if it goes, the other way where the other chemical is is too much. The foam is really brittle in and it almost just doesn't stand up. If you touch it, it actually crumbles away right away where this is well. This is good. This is nice and firm. That'S exactly what we want so now. The next step that we're kind of at and some actually something I didn't mention - was in most areas. If you spray up the two inches, you more than likely will not have to put the poly vapor barrier on the inside, so just check with your local codes. On that, the one thing to consider when doing that, and you notice that I put on two to three different coats like passes, so that those first couple get a chance to actually cure before you cover them up and form that skin over it, which gives you That that airlock or that air stoppage, because what's gon na happen now you can see where some of this foam has expanded past the actual framing. So I'm gon na go back. You know and trim it back flush. So now, if I did had done that all in one pass now that I cut that that probably compromises the vapor barrier, qualities of it where because I've got those couple passes in behind that, I'm not going to be cutting into. In my opinion, that's still pretty good, so in this case we're we're actually only in most in a lot of this we're a little less than an inch and a quarter or inch and a half thick. So we'll we're gon na need and from my area, we're gon na need another vapor barrier anyways, but something to consider so, if you're free, if you're spraying into a 2x4 wall where you've got the the ability to spray at two or two and a half inches Thick go ahead and do it check with your local Building Authority because you may not have to put a vapor barrier over after okay, let's move on so we've got it all sprayed. You can see I'm just taking a utility knife and just shaving this down flush with the studs and just clean it all up peel it off. So you just go around, do all that, because otherwise, if it's sticking out and you go to drywall over top of that, it's it's gon na give you some issues with pop screws and that sort of thing. Okay, so just keep going around another thing you can use is the old handy red bar scrape things down, get right, underneath it scrape it off like that once the foam is, is its secured point. This is not hazardous anymore. You can throw this right in the garbage, don't eat it, throw it in the garbage, but you don't you don't need the mask. I don't really even need the gloves on anymore, but just go around. Get things cleaned up so that it's all good for when you want to put the finishing touches over top of it? What else did I forget anything? I think that I think that should cover it so now you've seen how to do it. This may not be the most economical way if you're gon na do a whole basement. These kits aren't aren't real cheap. It might be cheaper to actually have a pearl come in and give you a price to do the whole thing. If you're in a remote area, though this might be the only option you have, if you're gon na do a you know a couple rooms or a little bit of space, then also again, it might might still be very economical to do it like this. This stuff works really good for joist ends as well so, and we do have a video on that. So if you want to check that out so yeah, I think that's all. I can tell you so that again, I'm Shannon from house improvements and if you want to go to our website, you can check out the forum. Ask any questions you might have about this on there and I'll get get a reply off to you as soon as I can, and also you can check out our YouTube channel and see all the other videos we have thanks for coming and watching.

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BETTER THAN A YETI COOLER? INSULATE YOUR COOLER CHEAP!

I got ta say this is a great basement. It'S got a high ceiling, plenty of clearance under the carrying beam, and what I'm going to do today is I'm going to show you how to insulate the basement walls and get you prepped for drywall in it all right now, whenever you do in a basement over The main concern that you always have to worry about is moisture, and that's why you had me install this plastic panel right. We did this a few weeks ago. What we're looking for is any condensation that should collect on the plastic if it collects between the plastic and the foundation. That means the foundation is not sealed. Next thing, I look for any condensation that you collect on the surface of the plastic. That'S nice and dry. So weird right, we're all set well we're all set, except for one thing. I saw a couple of rust marks right here from these steel ties in the walls, and that tells me that the water might be leaking down. Get any water in this corner of the basement yeah a little bit. Maybe we've got a downspout up here. I think that might be need to be. Redirected could be well. These concrete ties actually hold the forms when they pour the foundation when they remove the forms they have to break off these steel ties when they do that they should seal them from the outside to stop water from coming. In now, you've got a few of them that the water's coming in here so before we get started, I'm going to show you how to plug these holes from the inside all right, Brady take the center punch, put it on that tie and try to drive it Through going in oh yeah, good all right - let's get a couple more here Tom. How far should these be going through? They only have to go into about a quarter to a half an inch good to plug the holes. We'Re going to mix up some hydraulics meant. It'S really fine and it's ideal for this application, I'm going to put it in some water now I don't want to mix up too much because it sets up really fast. I won't only want to put mix up as much as I need. Okay, I'm mixing it up till it's like the consistency of peanut butter. Now, once I put it in the hole it's going to actually expand inside the hole, it's going to fill that gap up, so water can't leak through all right now before I apply the hydraulic cement to the hole, I want you to take that bottle and Miss The hole with water, the reason I want you to wet the concrete is, I don't want it to take all the water out of my head relics, mint so it'll dry evenly. Now I just want to push it in the hole just want to force it right. In there with the trial squeeze it off, and then we just want to flat it out. Okay, get to the next one. We'Re gon na lose that batch great starting to get a little stiffed on, but I can see how you can work it right in there. Yep get it in there all right before we lose the whole bucket. I got a couple over here. I want to grab just those holes for me, yep, oh yeah. This is what we're going to insulate your foundation with it's a two foot wide by 8 foot. High by 2 inches thick sheet of polystyrene, it has a tongue and groove joint. So when the pieces go together, it'll be nice and tight and we're going to apply it to your foundation with an adhesive. This is a foam board. Adhesive, it's going to stick the foam right to the foundation specifically formulated for this application. It'S very important that you don't have an adhesive with a solvent in it, because the solvent would actually deteriorate or eat the foam. Okay, now just tip the top into that space. Up above push it into the corner and hold it against the foundation: okay over there for a minute I'll get another sheet. Alright, next sheet. Okay, it's like now we're ready to mark the next piece to go around this Karen. So I'm going to lay this piece on top of the last piece that we installed line it up I'll, take a piece of scrap foam board two feet wide place it against the beam and I'm going to mark along this end of it. Take it bring it down and line this side up with the outside edge of the beam right here and I'm gon na put a mark right. There take my level go across the bottom of the beam, with a level line and Mark between my two marks. Now I'll cut that piece out, this is where the slot needs to be cut for the beam. I have a reference line on each side of the beam. I want to extend those all the way up to the top of the sheet. Just using the end of my tape to cut a groove now I'll, just cut it out with a handsaw, see how it fits okay, okay, let's get the next one. Okay, there you go. That'S pretty good Tom about an hour. We got this whole wall up. I told you it's gon na go fast now we have to think about how you're going to attach your drywall to the wall and how we're going to do that. We'Re actually going to make a wood grid system using this 1 by 3, spruce board. First thing I did is I measure to the top of the foundation over here and then I measure down about three inches and I put a line over here. I then measured up off the floor about 3 inches and placed another line. Then I divided the space in half and put a centerline. I divided the top space in half put another line divided the bottom space in half with another line. I got it so we're gon na have five horizontal nailing strips right. Next thing: we're going to do is we're going to snap some chalk lines all the way across the wall and apply our wood strips. Alright, here's how we're going to attach the spruce boards to the wall. This is called a spring spike. It doesn't have a point on the end like a regular nail, but it has a little band on the end. It acts like a spring when I drive this in through the concrete that spring will try to straighten out holding this bike into the wall. The spring spike is four inches long. I have to drill a hole. Fly hole has to be five inches deep because I don't want the spring spike to bottom out when I Drive it home fill the holes, I'm using a hammer drill with a 3/16 masonry bit. Alright, that's great now Brady you could actually install a wall board right to the horizontals, but I want to create more depth to accommodate the electrical to do that, we're going to run war one by three boards. Only this time vertically, right on the surface of the horizontal and to attach them, I'm going to use drywall screws now we're attaching our pieces of one by three vertically sixteen inches on center fasten our wall boy to it. What do you think Brady Thomas looks excellent? Well, now what we have a to chases, we can run a wire down from the ceiling vertically or horizontally behind the uprights by building the wall out, we've also created more depth in the wall. So now we can use a standard electrical outlet if we want to mount it here we dig out a little bit of insulation and then put it in up against the one by this is fantastic. You got me all set. I'M gon na get my brother in here this week and help me finish it off. Well, good luck! Thank you very much. You

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DIY Igloo Cooler Modification Using Spray Foam



Spray foam insulation like this works very well in a variety of situations.
This one happens to be a cathedral ceiling, so insulation is used to boost energy efficiency in the roof and in the walls, but there's something you have to understand and that's the difference between open cell and closed cell spray foam insulation and that's what this video sets Out to explain for you all spray foam can be roughly divided into two categories: there's the closed cell type, which is the most versatile and useful in cold climates, where heating is required, as opposed to open cell that I'll be discussing in a few minutes. Now, as the name suggests, closed cell is made of a whole bunch of closed cells and this matters because it affects how this particular kind of spray foam behaves in the real world. When it's applied thickly enough, it can act as its own vapor barrier and it's a very important and useful quality. The sides of the fact the closed cell foam delivers, on average a whopping r6 per inch and the fact that it can block air movement completely so drafts and air leakage of all kinds. The ability to block water vapor is a hidden and really useful feature. So imagine for a moment, you've got a wall structure. The top part of our cross section is closed-cell spray foam and the bottom section is more conventional fiber based insulation. This works really well, but it's it's kind of vulnerable in a way to let's say it's: minus 20 degrees Celsius on the outside of the wall and plus 20 degrees Celsius on the inside. This is a pretty typical wintertime situation and, let's imagine for a moment that there is no vapor barrier on the inside, as there normally is on a wall of this kind. If indoor air is allowed to pass into the wall because of the absence of the polyethylene vapor barrier, it's going to cool and eventually it's going to condense and drops of liquid water will appear within the wall. This, of course, is going to lead to mold and rot closed cell foam acts as its own vapor barrier, so moisture-laden air can't get in the wall and condense. Now, if polyethylene plastic is applied to the warm side of a fiber insulated wall, it solves this problem too, but it's not always possible to apply a vapor barrier like this accurately and completely closed cell foam also adds a remarkable amount of strength to a structure, because It'S so dense and it hears so well two framing structures. The other type of spray foam is called open cell precisely because the cells that make it up are more open, their number of advantages to open cell it's less expensive and it uses less resources. But there is a drawback, and this makes it less useful than a closed cell in cold and heating climates, although there certainly are uses for open cell as I'll explain specifically later. Imagine once again that we have spray foam insulation in a wall cavity except this time. It'S open cell. This type has a very powerful ability to block air movement so drafts and winds and things can't get through, but what it can't do, no matter how thickly it's applied is to prevent water vapor from entering the wall cavity. So once again, we've got the hazard of moisture entering a wall, cavity, cooling, condensing and promoting mold and rot unless something is done about it of course, and that something could be the application of a polyethylene vapor barrier on the inside. That particular combination works quite well. Even with extremes of warm and cold as you'd find during winter from an insulation point of view, open cell is significantly less effective per inch than closed cell it'll. Give you about our 3.5 for open compared with our six per for closed-cell, but on the plus side. Open-Cell is cheaper and it uses significantly fewer resources in its manufacturing, then closed cell. If you've spent much time researching the difference between open and closed cell insulation on the internet, you may have discovered something that I have and that's there's not a whole lot of recommended uses for open cell. So when exactly would you use this stuff? Well, one place is in a cooling climate, so a climate where you're gon na have to cool down the inside of your house much more often and much more intensely than heating it. So once again, let's start with a cross-section of some kind of a framing structure. This could be a roof or a wall or anything that separates indoor space from outdoor space. Now, let's put some open cell foam inside this structure and on the exterior of the structure, let's put on some sort of weatherproof covering it's going to shed water, but you can't really rely on it to prevent the movement of water vapor. So you've got the outdoor side of the structure and the indoor side and there's a temperature gradient between the two, but it's reversed compared with our previous example. Let'S say it's plus 35 C outside and the cooled air conditioned temperature inside is plus 20. So what do we have here? Well, if outdoor air is allowed to percolate through this wall, we're going to have the potential for some kind of condensation to occur? It'S not nearly the potential that would occur in a wintertime structure, but if there is any kind of condensation the beauty of the open cell is that it allows it to dry. It doesn't hold that moisture in and that's one of the reasons why you'd want to use something like this. A second instance when you might want to use open cell spray foam is in a vented attic situation, even in a heating climate. In fact, so imagine for a moment. You have a roof structure like you see here, and it's insulated with some open cell foam on the bottom of the Attic, so above the joists that would form the ceiling of the interior space. Now, as I said, this is open, celled foam, which means it can't stop the passage of water vapor, but it can dry and that's kind of one of its pluses in an application like this, there would be a vapor barrier of some kind on the warm side Of the insulation that would be required for this to work properly now in a heating climate, the indoor air would be warm and it would carry moisture to the extent that it could cause condensation unless it was deflected so to speak by the vapor barrier. So let's say it's raining and we have a roof leak and some moisture gets - and this is just one of many examples of how moisture can enter a building envelope. The beauty of open cell is that it can allow that moisture to escape. It can dry, it won't hold moisture in anywhere and that's really one of the main qualities for why you'd want to use it in a particular application. So, to recap, closed cell spray. Foam has specific qualities that make it work well in certain situations. It'S most often the foam of choice for cold climates, especially where that cold is extreme and the heating expectations are high. Second of all, it's strong and firm, so much so that it can actually increase the strength of a structure. Closed cell also does three things. Well. First, it blocks air movement exceptionally. Well, second, it blocks the passage of water vapor, that's the quality that separates it from open cell. As long as that closed cell is applied, three inches or thicker and, of course, closed-cell does deliver exceptional insulation properties as well about our six per inch open cell spray foam is most useful in warm climates where you have air conditioned spaces or anywhere, where you're not Going to have a condensation hazard, open cell costs less than closed cell, and it does two things particularly well. First of all, it blocks air movement and it delivers insulation. At a rate of about our three point, five per inch

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How to Choose and Use Foam Insulation |

Now, when you're insulating around a window, you also want to make sure that you're using the right kind of foam.
I tell you: I go down the aisle in the home center, those be a thousand cans.

How do you pick the right one?
Well, actually, if you're doing a window or a door, you actually look for the can that says window a door on it.
That's easy enough takes the guesswork out of it. Doesn'T it yep alright?

Now, when I'm filling that void between the window and the frame, I want to put a little bit in not too much, but I want to get enough in there. So it's all filled now. The idea of it is is not to put too much of this foam in and I don't want to use any other kind of foam, because it will expand so much that it will lock the window and push this right over in the window.

A door will not open. Have you actually seen it expand that much that it makes it shut many times so for windows and doors you want to have minimally expanding foam correct all right well over here is a different situation. We have a mock-up of an outside wall foundation, sill and stud wall right. What about sealing that up?

What are you right now? 
The gap right here between the foundation and the sill is a lot of air. They can get infiltrated, sort all right, cold, air in and warm air out. What you do there is you actually use a gap and crack foam. That'S pretty simple! You simply take it shake the can up turn it upside down, push it into the gap. As far as you can get it and squeeze out your foam push it in whenever you get to that spot, where it's going to go in, fill that up whenever you and let it foam out all right now, I've got enough in there and now I fill That gap now, let's say I had a break in the foundation where I had a big crack yeah, then I would use one that says: big cracks and gaps. Well, I, like the system, just take the guesswork right out. That'S right all right! Well, what about up? In the stud wall right here, you've got these electrical outlets. How do you make sure those are airtight? There'S always a draught through an electrical outlet all right now, let's say I was framing a wall, I'm getting ready to put my fiberglass insulation in there.

I'D cut the fiberglass insulation around the outlet put it into place, but before I did that I would put this insulation can right in back there and I would spray foam right back down and that will fill that gap.

Stop the air drafts alright.
So that's all our infiltration out to the outside, but what about these holes now anytime, you have an electrical outlet or electric a wire, a pipe or a duck. You got an issue with air coming up through the building or even fire coming up through. That'S right: that's called fire blocking when the electrician drills a hold is a void. I could simply take this foam push it in there and fill that void. Yeah, I'd.

Do it at this level in every level sure to stop the flame spread yeah all right, but they make it caulking a foam caulking that says fire blocking on it. So what's the difference in that on the standard? Well, the only difference between this and the standard is this is a brighter color. The reason they have a brighter color is. When I get my inspections, I asked for the inspector to come and look at the wall framing, for example, he's now looking to make sure that the wall is fire, blocked off, that's your and he can see that bright color. That'S the only difference right all right. So we've sealed up all the penetration in the building.

What about a big opening like this at the rim? Joist? What do you do? Well, I wouldn't use the foam and it can. I would use something different. This is more of a professional product. It'S a two-part polyurethane foam, that's sprayable! Now I see the two canisters two hoses and one gun right and you can get it from an insulating contractor or you can even get it online. So what does this cost? It'S cost about three hundred and fifty dollars. It'S not cheap, but you can do a lot of area now, I will simply spray it in the bay. Use a lot of cans to get that much oh yeah. Now that would grow right out in a second
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Spray Foam Insulation Spray Foam insulation has historically been an excellent way to make a home comfortable by reducing the total number of drafts and uninsulated areas within a home. In the past insulation was made with lightweight pebbles and sawdust but today we’ve come a long way to include fiberglass fibers as well as polyurethane spray foam. Our closed-cell polyurethane spray foam is one of the best ways that you can save money on your energy bill. We work across the greater tri-state area of Kentucky, West Virginia and Ohio to provide spray foam insulation installation. This can help you to better control the temperature within your business or within your home by filling in any cracks as well as producing a type of insulation which is better suited to fill in cracks and crevices over items like traditional fiberglass foam insulation. Spray foam insulation is heralded as one of the best types of insulation because it has a superior R value. R Value is a value that’s commonly used in rating insulation and the ability of an insulating material to reduce heat flow. Spray foam insulation has a relatively high value of 6.2 or higher which is considerably more efficient than any other insulation value. Spray Foam insulation can come with a number of benefits including: An Air barrier: Rather than traditional insulation that can still have air gaps, spray foam will actually fill in some of the gaps and provide full air sealing in open spaces. When applied in a fairly generous amount, it can seal in cracks around electrical panels, between sections of your house and where typical blow in insulation cannot reach. Waterproof solution: moisture can damage other types of insulation but polyurethane actually works as a water barrier which can protect your home from mildew and mold. Always creates an improvement: spray foam expands to fill in empty areas that need insulation throughout her property. As soon as the foam cures it doesn’t shift or saddle-like other types of insulation and this means it will make a difference once installed. By using our expert services you can make sure that spray foam can be handled in a professional manner. Our specialists know the types of temperatures to use spray foam at as well as some common places to fill spray foam into for the most effective results. Schedule a consultation with Jet Spray Foam today!

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